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Turkey lovers, vegetarians compromise for holiday feast By
J.M. Hirsch CONCORD, N.H. — Sometimes the most important ingredient for a vegetarian Thanksgiving is a turkey. That’s right. A fat, juicy turkey roasted golden and accompanied by the usual suspects — stuffing baked inside the bird and gravy made hearty and heavy from the drippings.
Why meat? Because Thanksgiving is about family and tradition, and the goal is to get everyone to the table, no matter what their eating habits. That calls for compromise in families where not everyone is excited about the big bird. In our case, that would be my side of the family. While my wife’s family is as meat-and-potatoes as it gets (even onions are a no-no), my own hasn’t had meat, never mind the butter on the potatoes, in who knows how many years. Yet every year we still all come to the same table and enjoy the meal together. And we enjoy our traditions, together. That’s because our families have perfected the art of having the holidays both ways. The planning of this potentially problematic meal is made easier by adhering to one simple guideline: Find common ground where you can, and make two of everything else. Without a turkey, Thanksgiving wouldn’t be a holiday for my wife’s family, any more than it would be for mine absent my mother’s vegan spanakopita. We serve both and everyone is happy. Here are other tricks we use to minimize our time in the kitchen and ensure everyone says thanks. • Some vegetarians aren’t comfortable cooking meat. If that’s the case, have a meat-eating guest bring the turkey. • When making mashed potatoes, boil up a double batch. After draining the potatoes, separate them into two bowls and mash separately — one with butter and cream, the other with soy milk and soy margarine. • Steam side-dish vegetables together, then separate into two batches before dressing with butter or other toppings. • Bake the stuffing in a covered casserole dish and use vegetable broth instead of meat stock. • Vegans like gravy, too. Try a recipe based on dark miso and serve it alongside the real thing. I enjoy taunting my father-in-law by telling him he took the “wrong” one. • Make plenty of dishes that are naturally vegan and easily enjoyed by all. For example, there are plenty of great recipes for dinner rolls and roasted sweet potatoes that don’t call for dairy products. Don’t forget the cranberry sauce. • For snacking before the big meal, offer hummus alongside dairy-based dips. Also be sure to snag some butter-free crackers. Even better, cut up pita bread rounds into triangles, brush lightly with olive oil and toast until crisp. • To ensure the little things don’t get left out, involve representatives from all eating habits in the planning. |
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